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Writer's pictureVivien Field

FREE Kidswear Applique Tutorial


Today I wanted to inspire you to use your stash and scrap bust with fabric you have lying around with yet one more Applique tutorial. If you saw my earlier tutorial showing you how to use the most simple of shapes to create easy appliques, then this will help you elevate that skill and do a layered or more complex version of an applique. Again you'll need some applique interfacing and its assumed you are capable of sewing and know how to do some fiddly sewing with your sewing machine. We're only going to use a simple straight stitch to finish off these appliques (if you exclude sewing up your sweater or hoody afterwards). I won't go into detail on how to sew the sweater or hoody as that's not what this tutorial is about. These wee projects are about embellishing your makes and having some scrap busting fun. For these projects you don't have to just use Cotton Knits like I have, you could use Cotton or Polyester woven, or Felt. Just be aware if you use Cotton Woven it will fray and you will need to use pinking shears or a zig zag stitch to reinforce the edges rather than what I have used in my examples. My tutorial will assume your fabric won't fray or fall apart at the edges, I have used mostly Cotton Spandex 4 way stretch fabrics for ALL of my makes, so that is what I will be expecting you to use for these too. Just use your judgement on what fabrics to use to complete these appliques. If you choose to use felt scraps then great as they are highly unlikely to fray and will retain their shape well, they are less likely to curl like the Cotton knits I have used. Ok so lets get onto the tutorial. If you need a refresher or want to start with something simplier please see my earlier applique tutorial here.


What you will need:


  • Heat and Bond (Applique Interfacing) - I get mine from Spotlight in NZ. You can find it here.

  • Scraps of fabric for the applique (I used Cotton Spandex scraps mostly because they don't fray so you can get away with a simple straight stitch to sew them on)

  • A precut top front (its easier to sew when its just a flat piece cut out rather than a premade top)

  • A Pen (Sharpie recommended) for tracing your design onto the Heat and Bond

  • The Design for your Applique (I will add some links to PDF templates used for these tutorials in each example)

  • A Standard Sewing Machine (with a clear foot like a button foot so you can see what you are doing)

  • Suitable contrast thread for the sewing machine

  • an Iron (you'll need this to apply your applique before sewing around it)




Step-by-Step Guide to Creating a FREE Unicorn with Rainbow Mane Applique


In this tutorial we are going to be working on a fun Unicorn with cut mane applique. You can choose to do the more complex cut version with different colours for the Unicorn features or just do a basic one colour silhouette version of the Unicorn, its up to you and what you are willing to try. In my example I will be showing the more complex multi colour patches. I recommend using different colours for the mane so that it adds to the fun, but really its up to you and what you want your Unicorn to look like. For this tutorial you'll need Heat N Bond, a Textile Marker (Or sharpie - but be warned that will eventually wash off) or you can choose to stitch the facial features on. You will also need the Unicorn template - click HERE to download the PDF.








First off print out your Applique template and trace the head (and ears and horn if you wish to do the simple version) onto the Heat n Bond with a non marking marker like a Sharpie (you don't want it to come off on your iron trust me).












On your scrap of main fabric colour (the white in my example) iron the Heat n Bond to the WRONG SIDE of your fabric.













Cut out the Heat n Bond and fabric following the lines you just drew.


Peel off the paper backing of the Heat n Bond as shown in the photo.







Find the center of the Front piece of your top you have precut and about 5cm down from the neckline (this is for youth tops as that's what this applique is aimed at), and center your main unicorn head onto the top front. Using an iron on Cotton setting iron your applique piece to the fabric making sure the Heat n Bond backing is facing the RIGHT SIDE of your top front. If needed use Baking Paper between your iron and fabric to protect them.







Optional: You can now cut the cheek, nose, horn and inner ear pieces from suitable fabric and following the same steps as the main applique piece attach them to your top front (see photos). If you are doing the simple version you can continue on with the steps to attach the mane.









Attaching the Rainbow Mane:

Cut small rectangles of suitable cotton knit pieces about 5 x 6cm and cut thin strips into one side leaving a seam allowance on one side as shown in the photo. Cut approximately 4-5 different pieces in different colours.














Pin each piece along the back neck of the Unicorn head, right sides together (see photo)














Stitch from the bottom of the unicorn head to the ear attaching your mane pieces as you go (see photo).


Attach another piece of mane on the other side of the ear and horn without stitching over either the horn or ear piece.








Fold back your mane so the wrong side is against the right side of the Top Front. Iron smooth.


Stitch the mane down along the edge as shown to make sure the mane sits nicely against the Top Front. Continue stitching using a straight stitch, around the ear and along the next mane piece the base of the Horn the next mane piece and then around the rest of the Unicorn Head. Make sure you are close to the edge but not too close (see photo for example). Don't forget to backstitch at the end and beginning.





You have now attached your mane and can continue on with finishing off your Unicorn head. Using a textile pen (or Sharpie) draw the mouth, nose, and eye onto your applique as shown on the template, or stitch using a buttonhole stitch on your sewing machine, or hand stitch using Embroidery cotton, whatever is your preferred method.





Your Applique is now finished. Go ahead and complete your sweatshirt or hoody pattern and enjoy how cool your Unicorn looks.


Your Finished Sweatshirt with Fun Applique


Step-by-Step Guide to Creating a FREE Little Lion Applique


In this tutorial we are going to do a similar applique to the Unicorn Head but instead do a cute wee lion. This one is small and is basically for toddlers and Babies tops. You can add this to wee sweaters or Bodysuits for fun outfits. If you want to do it bigger you will need to enlarge the pattern when printing. As before you are going to need suitable knit fabric scraps, Heat N Bond, a textile marker or willingness to stitch the facial features. As this is little some of the bits of fabric to applique on are tiny and fiddly, so I recommend simplifying this and leaving out some features if you find it too difficult. I have used French Terry Cotton Sweatshirting with a loopback as the main body and face of the Lion and used it loop-side out so it will give the wee lion a furry texture. Its up to you whether you want to do the same, it is a lot easier to iron on the Heat n Bond to the smoother side of the French Terry which helps as well.








Printout your Wee Lion Applique Template which you can download HERE.












Cut out the mane piece and use it to cut out a suitable piece of Cotton Knit as shown.












Also cut out a small circle of Heat n Bond small enough to center on the mane piece. Iron the Heat n Bond to the WRONG SIDE of the fabric cut for the Mane.











Peel off the Heat n Bond paper backing from your Mane piece.


Find the center of your Front top you have cut out and approximately 3cm down from the neckline place your mane piece ensuring the RIGHT SIDE is showing and that the Heat n Bond side is applied to the RIGHT SIDE of the Top Front. Iron in place.






Trace the Body and Face pieces from the Template onto the Paper Backing of the Heat n Bond. Iron these to the RIGHT SIDE of the French Terry (if you want the fuzzy or loopback side shown not the smooth) Cut the pieces out from the Fabric and peel the Heat n Bond paper backing from each piece.












Position the Face piece OVER the already attached Mane centering it within the Mane as much as possible. Iron in place.
















Lift up the Mane and tuck the Body piece beneath the mane so it is covered (see the photos). Fold the mane back down and iron the body piece on.














To add the facial features you can cut out the Lion example and place it over the applique so its not facing you, and fold back so you can see the eye, eyebrow, nose etc and make wee marks for positioning for each using a sharpie or textile pen.












Remove the paper template and using it for example draw the eye, nose, mouth and eyebrows on. Or Hand stitch on the features using Embroidery cotton. (NB: remember sharpie will fade and wash off but it will work for a few washes).















Optional: Add a few of the features like the inner ear, tail tuft etc as additional scraps of fabric by tracing them onto Heat n Bond and adding them to the Lion using similar steps to above.












To finish your lion off stitch around the body, face and ears using a simple straight stitch. This will be tricky as its quite small so take your time and go slowly, remembering to lift and turn the foot and fabric as you go to help you turn such small corners. Or go ahead and hand stitch around it all and finish it off using Embroidery cotton.








Using a sharp pair of scissors cut into the mane of the lion and make small strips to make the mane more fun. Be warned that some Cotton Knits will curl (mine did) and that will make the mane go a bit weird, my advice is to cut your mane a bit larger to allow for the natural curl of the fabric and add to the cuteness. You don't have to cut the mane at all, if you want you can just stitch around it instead(but make sure you use Heat n Bond over the WHOLE mane piece when attaching it).





And you are done! Go ahead and sew up your top (or Bodysuit) as per pattern instructions and be happy with your efforts!


I used the Brindille and Twig FREE Hoodie in size 2 years.

Thank you for following yet one more of my tutorials, stay tuned for another fun Applique tutorial in the future with many wee options.


Vivien

Picklefish NZ




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