Who doesn't love a FREE sewing pattern? I do love to hack FREE patterns like the Brindle and Twig Scuba Hoodie which is a good all round children's raglan hoodie/sweatshirt. I needed to create a zip jacket with a curved hem that was bigger than a size 3 years which was the limit of a Baby Jacket I have been doing for a few years. So I decided to hack my favourite FREE Hoodie pattern into a curved hem zip jacket, and I thought it would be a handy hack for others as well. Its designed for stretch fabrics, but you could size up and use a heavier woven, like flannelette, Cord, Denim, or a softshell. If you use a fabric that is less stretchy I recommending sizing up two sizes in width but keeping the correct size in length. If you need an easy fast Zip Jacket for the kids then this might be what you are looking for. Lets get on with the tutorial.
What you will need:
the FREE Brindle and Twig Hoodie or a similar Sewing Pattern of your choice.
Paper, Pen, Sellotape and scissors.
Fabric of choice (preferably Mid weight knit)
Ribbing for the cuffs
Lightweight Cotton Knit for the hood lining and hem facing
Interfacing scraps
An Open End zip of the correct length (I have used 30cm for the Baby sizing and 40cm for the older kids. I will show you how to shorten your zip in this tutorial too)
How to Hack a Hoodie Pattern to a Zip Jacket Pattern:
You will need the front and back pattern pieces, some scraps of paper, a ruler and a pen.
Trace your front pattern piece onto the paper and leave yourself some room to draw a longer hem. Measure down from the original hem approximately 3.5m at the side seam side and about 2cm at the front edge and place marks. Join the two marks into a slight curve up to create the new jacket hemline.
Do The same with the Back pattern piece and measure down about 6cm from the centre Back seam and about 3.5cm at the side seam end. Join the two marks in a curved edge to create the new curved Hem. (see picture for an example)
Lay the Front and Back pattern pieces with the new hemlines side by side so the seams overlap and place a piece of paper over the pattern pieces. Trace the hemline and up 5cm to create a Hem Facing pattern piece. The pattern should include both the front and back hems from the front edge to the centre back fold.
You now have all your pattern pieces.
How to Cut out your Zip Jacket:
Cut out two Front pattern pieces adding about 1-1.5cm extra at the front edge.
Iron approximately 2cm wide interfacing to the front edge as shown in the photo.
From your main Jacket fabric cut your Back on the fold, two sleeves as per the hoodie pattern, and two outer hood pattern pieces.
From your lining you will also need two inner hood pieces, and the Hem facing cut on the fold.
You will also need to cut your cuffs from the ribbing.
Now lets sew your Jacket from a Hoodie!
How to Sew the Zip Jacket:
Sew sleeves onto each Front piece and each Back piece right side to right side.
Sew the inner sleeve and side seams together in a long seam. Also sew the cuffs together at the short edge as shown in the photo.
Sew the Outer and Inner hoods centre seams.
Attach cuffs to the edges of the sleeves.
Clip the outer hood to the neck edge right side to right side, matching the centre back and middle of each sleeve.
Place the hood lining on the wrong side of the jacket and clip along the neckline as well matching the seams and edges with the outer hood. (see photo)
Stitch hoods to the neckline edge taking care to make sure no bunching or missing edges happen. Just take your time and adjust the 3 layers as you go.
Tuck hoods into each other and clip hoods wrong side to wrong side at the outer edge. Overlock the outer edge of the fronts and stitch the two hoods together at the same time (see photo)
On your hem facing piece overlock the upper edge and each short end. (to give it a clean finish).
Fold your hem facing piece in half and mark the centre back. Also do the same with your jacket. Matching your centres and having right side to right side.
Clip or pin the hem facing to the bottom edge of the jacket fronts and backs.
Stitch your hem facing to the hem edge of your jacket body.
Place your open end zipper on the right side of your jacket front edges and clip in place.
If the zip is too long mark where you need to cut the top of the zipper and remove the zip. Making sure the zipper pull is below where you are cutting, cut across the zipper to the length required. Using a lighter or match sear the ends of the zipper tape to prevent fraying.
Using a button hole stitch (wide but short length stitch) stitch across the top of each side of the zipper tape over the teeth to create new stoppers (see photo). You have now shortened your zip.
Clip zip to the front edge of each front edge, fold the hem facing up to the cover the bottom of the zip as shown and stitch the zip in place with a zipper foot. Cut corner of the hem facing as shown. Repeat for other side of the zipper.
Fold Hem facing back towards the inside of the jacket (wrong side). Press.
Topstitch zipper close to the zipper teeth from top of the zip to the base.
Pin facing to the jacket body and using a straight stitch stitch the facing from the inside to the jacket body. (see photo).
Fold outer edge of the hood to the inside and topstitch to bind the hood edge as shown.
Your Jacket is now finished :-)
Have fun creating more Jackets !
Note: This technique can be used with any hoodie pattern, not just the Brindle & Twig kids hoodie. If you want you can use this for an Adult hoodie too. Experiment you just might surprise yourself.
Vivien
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